Where to stay in Buenos Aires: guide to the best neighbourhoods

San Telmo and Montserrat

San Telmo and its adjoining neighbourhood Montserrat together make up the oldest part of Buenos Aires. We usually stay in San Telmo on our trips to Buenos Aires as we love the historic charm of its cobbled roads, markets, wine bars and eateries.

In many ways, San Telmo is the life and soul of the authentic Buenos Aires. Its gridded roads are lined with brand old colonial buildings, and on every corner you will find a great local café, parrilla or boutique shop.

An old 19th-century market building, Mercado de San Telmo, stands at the centre of the neighbourhood and is still its heartbeat today. Inside is a maze of food stalls, with various other shops lining its outer corridors.

The roads immediately surrounding the market building are home to some of the city’s most authentic local restaurants and bars. We love steak houses like El Desnivel and La Brigada, and the craft beer bar Chin Chin, to name a few.

Sundays are a special time here, as the streets are taken over by Feria de San Telmo, a huge open-air market. It stretches mainly along the road Defensa, but spills out further into the neighbourhood’s back lanes and plazas.

San Telmo is great for backpackers as it has some great value hostels that are fun, sociable and hold events like asado nights and walking tours. There are also some gorgeous characterful old hotels and family-run guest houses if you’re looking for something more up-market.

Now, let’s take a look at some of our favourites. You can also read our complete travellers’ guide to San Telmo, which takes an even deeper dive into the neighbourhood.

Viajero Hostel Buenos Aires

Viajero Hostel is a large hostel that sits on the threshold of San Telmo and Montserrat, with dozens of rooms spread over multiple floors. It’s part of a chain of hostels in Latin America that keeps growing due to its popularity.

We stayed at Viajero for a week in Buenos Aires and we absolutely loved it. There’s quite a mix of clientele here, not just young backpackers. So we didn’t feel out of place as a couple in our late 30s / early 40s. There are options to book a private room, which is what we did, and there are cheap dorm beds as well.

The social vibe at Viajero is great, and the friendly staff team run multiple activities every day of the week. We went to the asado night, two walking tours (San Telmo and La Boca) and a milonga night. All were very well organised and a lot of fun.

There is a bar on the basement floor (so you don’t hear a lot of noise from the rooms). On the first floor is a comfy lounge area and kitchen, and there is a swimming pool outside as well. All-round we were very impressed with the facilities, and would happily book here again.

Rayuela Hostel Boutique

Rayuela is the first hostel we stayed at in Buenos Aires, and we ended up staying a few weeks there. Just around the corner from Viajero, Rayuela has a more intimate, boutique vibe with a handful of beds (dorm and private options).

We came to adore Rayuela Hostel and its homely atmosphere. It’s not a party place but is fantastic for socialising, and we made a lot of friends at the weekly asado nights. There’s a very good daily breakfast and communal facilities, including a small kitchen, and a lounge with a pool table and TV.

The location is handy for wandering into San Telmo or Montserrat, or jumping on a bus on Avenida 9 de Julio, a couple of minutes walk away. A metro station is close by as well.

L’Adresse Hôtel Boutique

This cute boutique hotel is set in a quiet little corner of San Telmo on the south side of the neighbourhood. L’Adresse Hôtel Boutique is just a stone’s throw away from the leafy Parque Lezama, and about a ten-minute walk from San Telmo Market.

Inside the grounds of the hotel is a peaceful courtyard where you can take shelter from the rush of the city. The daily breakfast here is excellent too, one of the best around.

A similar hotel to this in Palermo would probably be twice the price. The location is perhaps a little out of the way, but it’s a charming place and great value.

Lina’s Tango Guesthouse

Lina’s Tango Guesthouse has a more central location in San Telmo, midway between the market and Avenida 9 de Julio, one of the city’s main thoroughfares. It’s a short walk into the heart of the neighbourhood and also easy to hop on a bus to elsewhere in the city.

The place has the feel of a homely bed and breakfast. Hosts Lina and Francisco are sure to make you welcome. The patio and courtyard is a lovely place to relax, and you can have breakfast out here as well.

Cassa Lepage Art Hotel

Situated just north of San Telmo in the historic Montserrat neighbourhood, Cassa Lepage Art Hotel is one of the city’s most stunning hotels.

As you might guess from the name, the hotel has an artistic theme, with paintings hung throughout the building. There is also a museum and an archaeologic dig on site which you must take the chance to explore while you’re here.

With its high ceilings and magnificent decor, the museum ambience resonates throughout the property. It’s a unique place to stay in Buenos Aires. Meanwhile, the location is a sweet spot for attractions like Plaza de Mayo, Café Tortoni and the old streets of San Telmo.

Scala Hotel

Scala Hotel is an excellent 4-star hotel in San Telmo that sits just off Avenida 9 de Julio. We particularly love the sun terrace here, where you can relax with panoramic views of the city.

The rooms are spacious with large, plush beds and very good all-round facilities. Overall this is a great choice if you’re looking for comfort and cleanliness, not to mention a very tasty and varied breakfast.

Palermo

Over on the north side of the city, Palermo is a world away from San Telmo with a completely different vibe. This is a large, sprawling neighbourhood with low rooftops, lots of green space, colourful street art, and also the hub of the city’s nightlife and restaurant scene.

Palermo is very large and is separated into sub-districts. Two of the most popular for travellers are Palermo Soho and Palermo Hollywood.

Palermo Soho is the chic and lively sub-district, full of boutique stores, great parrillas, craft beer joints and cocktail bars. Many of the best steak houses in Buenos Aires are located here. It’s a bustling place during both day and night, with a young crowd of students, locals and travellers. This sub-district has a mix of accommodation options – Palermo’s best budget hostels are here, but there are various hotels as well.

Palermo Hollywood is so named as a nod to its TV and movie scene. It has a few more high-rises in its landscape and is more residential than Palermo Soho. The area is a hotspot for food and drink, with many wine bars, breweries and restaurants packed into its streets. It’s also home to some of the city’s swankiest hotels.

In general, Palermo is one of the safest neighbourhoods of Buenos Aires, but as it’s popular with tourists you still need to be vigilant.

So, let’s take a look at some of the best accommodation options across the breadth of Palermo.

Alfonsina Hostel

Alfonsina Hostel, situated in Palermo Soho, is on the more expensive side for a hostel but you do get money’s worth for the premium. It’s super clean and spacious with top-notch facilities, including great showers!

The bedding quality at Alfonsina is more in line with a boutique hotel than a hostel. The breakfast is quite basic, but you have the benefit of being in a great location for nearby bars and restaurants. Security is impeccable as well.

PH Palermo Hostel

Also in Palermo Soho, one thing we love about PH Palermo Hostel is that it has work desks! So, if you are in Buenos Aires as a digital nomad or on a workation, or you just need some space to send a few emails or edit your travel photos, this is a real bonus.

The hostel itself is very good value for the area and has a welcoming, international feel. The team runs various activities and there is a great rooftop terrace area for socialising. If you’re looking to self-cater there is a well equipped kitchen, and if not, you’re right in the heart of the Palermo Soho restaurant scene.

Shoshana Hotel Boutique

Perched on the cusp of Palermo Hollywood and Palermo Soho, Shoshana Hotel Boutique has the best of both worlds. The property is beautiful throughout with a stylish, contemporary feel, and complete with all the modern facilities you need.

You can choose between hotel rooms and serviced apartments. The breakfast is fantastic and is served continuously throughout the day, with no restrictions to guests – not something you often see in hotels! Snacks and drinks are available throughout the night as well.

The hosts at Shoshana Boutique Hotel have a focus on making the service highly personalised, a big part of why it’s one of Palermo’s best reputed hotels.

Sissi Haz Hotel

Sissi Haz Hotel is a cosy hotel with just six rooms in the heart of Palermo Soho. The building almost feels like a Swiss chalet, with stone walls, wooden-beamed ceilings, and wooden windows with swinging shutters.

This hotel is on the cheaper side for Palermo but it doesn’t feel like a budget hotel. It’s more like a family-run bed and breakfast, with a charming host, Lorenzo. Outside the back there is a peaceful courtyard laden with flowering plants, and you can eat breakfast out here in the sunshine.

Mine Hotel Boutique

Mine Hotel is a gorgeous little boutique hotel in Palermo Soho, in a hotspot area for cafés and restaurants. It’s an all-round beauty of a hotel, comfy and homely, with a relaxing outdoor area that has a small swimming pool open in the warmer months.

We went to the milonga night at La Viruta Tango Club, which is just around the corner from the hotel. If you’re staying on a Sunday night you should definitely pop along, learn some tango steps and dance the night away! It was one of our best nights out in Buenos Aires.

Fierro Hotel

If you want to go all-out and experience some of the true swank and style of Palermo Hollywood, then book to stay at Fierro Hotel. You can begin your days here with a dip in the pool on the rooftop terrace with views over the neighbourhood.

The bedrooms are spacious with huge, comfy beds, and kitchenettes for self-dining, although if you’re staying in the area you will probably want to hit up the restaurants right on the doorstep. The breakfast is definitely worth staying in for though, as it’s one of the best you’ll find at any hotels in Buenos Aires.

Recoleta

Recoleta is sometimes known as the “Paris of Argentina” or the “Paris of South America”, thanks to its wide boulevards and grand old palaces. It was once the epicentre of the city’s wealth, and you can still see and feel the legacy of this today.

One of the most visited places in Recoleta is its cemetery, where you can take guided tours. This has become one of the most popular things to do in Buenos Aires for tourists, not least because it is the final resting place of Eva “Evita” Peron, as well as many other Argentine celebrities, politicians and members of high society.

Recoleta is also a hotspot for shopping, with its large malls and long shop-lined streets. We were blown away by El Ateneo Grand Splendid, which might just be the most beautiful book store in the world, set inside a renovated century-old theatre.

The neighbourhood is also home to important museums and creative spaces like the Museo Nacional de Bellas Artes and Centro Cultural Recoleta.

We have stayed in Recoleta on previous trips and we appreciated these surroundings, as well as the central positioning of the area. It’s a a good launchpad to get around to anywhere else in the city.

While Recoleta is full of grand old buildings, there’s a good range of accommodation options from budget to luxury. Let’s dive into our recommendations.

Reina Madre Hostel

This hostel is in a quiet area on the south side of Recoleta, and about a 20 to 30-minute walk from Palermo Soho. Reina Madre Hostel is the kind of hostel we love to stay in, as it has a vibrant social vibe without being a full-on party place.

The location is great if you want to stay in a quieter area without being too far from attractions and places to eat. There’s a very nice leafy park around the corner for picnics or some morning exercise.

This hostel is amazing value for the price as well. It’s one of the cheapest you’ll find in this part of the city. If you’re a creative type then you might appreciate the vibrant colours, the selection of books and the house guitar.

And in case you any need more persuading, there are two very cute resident cats as well!

Casa Franca Recoleta Hostel

Casa Franca Recoleta Hostel is a fantastic little hostel that has both dormitories and private rooms. The dorms have large, well separated bunk beds with plug-in points and security lockers.

The communal spaces are a real highlight of this hostel. It’s a great choice for digital nomads or workationers as it features coworking spaces, hence we have a soft spot for it! One of the work spaces looks out onto the beautiful gardens. There is also a lounge, terrace and bar.

One great reason to stay at Casa Franca is that it’s right next door to Öss Kaffe, where you will find (arguably) the best coffee in Buenos Aires. We were tipped off about this place by a local guide and we stopped by for a sweet breakfast, involving their gin and honey coffee, and homemade cakes. Nice to have right on your doorstep!

Poetry Building Recoleta

We stayed for two nights at Poetry Building Recoleta during our travel career break thanks to an incredibly generous gift from a good friend of ours after we’d had a difficult time.

Set in one of Recoleta’s opulent old mansions, this place comprises serviced apartments that haven’t lost any of the splendour from the days of the aristocracy in the city. There is a seasonal swimming pool up on the roof terrace as well.

The furnishings in our apartment were antique and decadent, while the facilities were still modern. With a food market and shops just around the corner, it’s perfect for having home-cooking nights in with a bottle of Argentine red. Not to mention the bottle of bubbles that was waiting for us in the fridge.

We would stay here again in a heartbeat. Definitely a great choice if you are looking for where to stay in Buenos Aires for a romantic weekend.

ARC Recoleta Boutique Hotel & Spa

Another hotel in Recoleta blessed with a rooftop pool is ARC Boutique Hotel & Spa, and you don’t need to pay through the nose for it.

This hotel has a modern, corporate feel to it, so it doesn’t quite have the same charm and character you might find in the old mansions or the colonial buildings of Recoleta, but you can be sure of comfort and excellent facilities. If that’s all you need, this is a great choice, and you get a lot for the price.

As well as the pool, the hotel has a spa, gym, restaurant and bar, with a very good breakfast, and it’s in a great location for exploring.

Urban Suites Recoleta Boutique Hotel

Urban Suites Recoleta Boutique Hotel is an absolutely stunning modern hotel with one of the best views of Buenos Aires from its terrace. Some rooms come with balconies and views too, and it’s well worth making sure you get one of these.

The location couldn’t be more central in Recoleta, right next to the famous cemetery and the district’s Urban Mall for shopping. Just a couple of doors away is Buller Brewery and Pub, which also has a great rooftop bar to sip craft beer and enjoy more views.

Palladio Hotel Buenos Aires MGallery

Palladio Hotel MGallery is a 5-star hotel overlooking Plaza Rodríguez Peña Park in a quiet part of Recoleta, also fairly close to Teatro Colón, the city’s most famous theatre. It’s a great base for exploring, but you might also be happy staying in the hotel most of the time to enjoy its decadent comforts.

The hotel has a great range of facilities, including a gym, spa, heated pool and a very good restaurant. The bar does amazing cocktails. Make sure you try the Divino!

Centro

It’s hard to pinpoint a “downtown” area of Buenos Aires, but El Centro is probably the closest thing to it. While it’s not really at the geographical centre of the city, it’s a hub for a lot of things.

The neighbourhood is home to some of the city’s most iconic and important landmarks, like the Obelisk monument, Plaza de Mayo and Teatro Colón. It is also a convenient base for getting around, with the bus routes on Avenida 9 de Julio connecting to pretty much anywhere in the city, and the train and bus terminals of Retiro right nearby.

El Centro is also where you will find the best high-end shopping in Buenos Aires. Calle Florida, the city’s first pedestrianised street, is located within the district, and it’s now one of South America’s most famous commercial streets.

While this area isn’t our go-to for food and drink, you will still find some gems around. Most notable is Café Tortoni, the city’s oldest café, where creatives and politicians used to meet. For food, Santos Manjeras is one of our favourite affordable steak spots for lunch or dinner.

Overall, El Centro is probably the best neighbourhood in Buenos Aires to stay if you prioritise convenience. There is a wide choice of accommodation at different price ranges. Let’s take a closer look.

Che Juan Hostel BA

Che Juan Hostel is a fantastic friendly hostel with some of the best value for money anywhere in the city for backpackers. You won’t find many hostels with better all-round facilities, and it also has a great sociable vibe, hence we love it.

The dorm beds have individual in-built lockers and comfy mattresses. There are plenty of showers so you’re unlikely to be kept waiting, as so often happens in hostels. Private rooms are available too, and are very spacious and comfortable – pretty much hotel standard at hostel prices.

Communal features are also great, including BBQ facilities, shared lounges and a well equipped kitchen. There are various activities organised every day, such as tango lessons and empanada cooking classes. Overall, we’re very impressed, and we’re sure you will be too!

Parla Hostel

Situated on the south side of Centro, bordering on the historic neighbourhood of Montserrat, Parla Hostel is a fun backpackers’ hostel. This is a great place to stay if you want to meet people and socialise while travelling on a budget. It has a rooftop terrace and bar, and organises regular social events like communal dinners.

The location is very convenient, in view of Plaza de Mayo, and a 2-minute walk from Café Tortoni or the bus stops on Avenida 9 de Julio. Some of the hostel’s facilities are a little basic, such as a small communal kitchen, but overall it’s great value with an enjoyable atmosphere.

Hotel UOM Buenos Aires

Hotel UOM stands just off Avenida 9 de Julio and is a solid hotel towards the budget end of the scale. The location is ideal for getting around or doing some sightseeing on foot.

There’s nothing too fancy about the rooms but they are spacious with comfortable beds, so if that’s all you need for an enjoyable trip, Hotel UOM is a fine option. Breakfast is included in the price as well.

Tanguero Hotel Boutique Antique

Tanguero Hotel is a lovely small boutique hotel set in a traditional old building at a great location in Centro, just off Avenida Córdoba.

As you might guess from the name, the hotel is themed around tango, Argentina’s favourite dance, and its walls are hung with pictures telling the history of this national tradition. Antique furniture and period music adds to the feeling that you are stepping back to a different time in the story of Buenos Aires.

Besides this, the rooms are beautifully decorated, and there are some great facilities like a spa with gym, sauna and jacuzzi.

Puerto Madero

The old docklands area of Buenos Aires at Puerto Madero has been transformed in recent times into a gentrified district of hip waterside bars and swanky hotels. In essence this is where all the new money in the city has been heading.

Puerto Madero is also home to the city’s only casino. It might sound like a soulless place, but somehow it really isn’t. When staying in neighbouring San Telmo we love taking walks over to the docklands to stroll along the waterside and maybe sit out on Peñón del Águila for an ice-cold beer.

The docks is separated from the river estuary by Costanera Sur, a huge sprawling nature reserve with lakes, grasslands and woodlands. On our first trip to Buenos Aires I often went out for morning runs here to escape the city.

Puerto Madero is very different to the city’s other popular neighbourhoods, and makes for an interesting alternative base. But you’ll probably need to pay for it – most of the accommodation around the waterside comprises top-end hotels.

Still up for it? Let’s dive into our top picks.

Almarena Madero Urbano

One of the few mid-range accommodations in Puerto Madero, Almarena Madero Urbano is like a hybrid of a hotel and serviced apartments. Sitting on the west side of the docklands, it’s not in the best spot of the district, but not a bad option if you want to stay in the area without spending a fortune.

The apartments are very spacious for the money and well kitted out. Staying here also gives you access to a pool and gym within the complex.

Hilton Buenos Aires

We walked into the lobby of the Hilton Buenos Aires one morning to meet for a tour and we were wowed by the grandeur of the place. It shouldn’t have come as a surprise, as I’ve been lucky enough to stay in Hiltons before, in places as far-flung as Beijing and Malta.

The building is one of the most recognisable on the docklands, and it takes a prime spot overlooking the waterside. A huge rooftop swimming pool is one of its defining features, and the bedrooms come with all the 5-star luxury you’d expect from a Hilton.

Rooms are not cheap, but you will be sure of a memorable stay.

Hotel Madero Buenos Aires

A little more affordable than the Hilton, Hotel Madero Buenos Aires comes with great rooftop views of its own in a quieter spot on the south side of the docklands.

The hotel is mostly decorated and furnished in contemporary style but with some artistic and traditional touches as well. There is lots of space throughout, especially in the rooms, and the facilities include a gym and heated indoor pool.